I arrived at the nice four star hotel CANDIANI in Casale Monferrato quite late after some trouble picking up my rental car, but made it just in time for a late dinner at Cincinbalicin, which the receptionist at the hotel had suggested. One big, open room with wooden furniture and a nice little wine list. Could have been a hip laid-back restaurant in New York if not for the very local crowd. Cozy, and just what I needed after a day of travel. With my rusty Italian, I saw “vitello” (veal) and ordered it without bothering to figure out what cut it was. Well, I now know the word for liver (it’s “fegato”). Not being much of a liver lover, I was tentative, but this pan-fried veal liver went down surprisingly well with the sweet flavors of fried onion and sage, and with a little help from a delicious, velvety, spicy Nebbiolo di Lange DOC. Nebbiolo di Lange from a good producer can be a good value alternative to the much more expensive Barolo and Barbaresco. It’s the same grape (said Nebbiolo), the same general region, and same methods of production minus a year or so in the cellar. At a third of the price.